On the Road Again!

I've said it before, and I'll say it again, traveling is NOT for the faint of heart.  I've met inspirational people, met a**holes, seen breathtaking places, seen slums, lived like a queen, lived off canned beans, gotten lucky breaks, and gotten screwed over.  All things considered, the New Zealand leg of my adventure has been nothing short of magical.  I've crossed a few things off my bucket list, and I am eager for the next leg of the journey!

Below are a few of my favorite photos from along the way.  Tomorrow, I'm off to Singapore! After that, I have three months to zigzag through Southeast Asia and get home before my gorgeous cousin Amanda's wedding.  Ready... set... GO!

Goodbye Land of Long White Clouds :)

Mabuhay Pilipinas

I've been dreading trying to pack my time in the Philippines into one blog, but here goes nothing...

On 48 hours of no sleep, I exited the plane into a sauna, and it was only 6 am!  Out on the street I got stares from all directions, which I quickly realized was due to being the only white person and probably the tallest one there (yep I was tall).  Sensory overload continued as Glenn, my driver, ripped through Manila morning traffic, swerved around overloaded jeepneys (open air busses) and crossed the "shitty river" (literally a river filled with trash) into Makati city.

Day 1: Much like NYC, Manila is divided into neighborhoods.  Also like NYC, it is intimidatingly vast and busy.  Having a knowledgeable tour guide who spoke the language was amazing.  We stayed in Makati, the Philippine Manhattan, for the first few days.  There are endless amounts of shops, restaurants, and people.  I was shocked to find myriad American comforts, Outback, California Pizza Kitchen, 7-eleven (oh thank heaven), Forever 21, etc.  Dinner the first night was traditional Fil cuisine; lots of garlic, lots of pork, adobo spice, and everything fried.  We went to an open-air club for live music and people watching.  Women are not allowed to sit at the tables in here without a male companion, so scantily clad Filipinas circled the patio like flies waiting for invitations.  

Jeepneys 

Day 2: The next day we visited Fort Bonofacio area.  The Manila-American Cemetery and Memorial, spans 152 acres and is the largest American cemetery on foreign soil.  It is an awe-inspiring visual of white headstones for fallen WWII soldiers in perfectly manicured rows.

Day 3: We flew to Cebu, an island to the south, and a much different representation of Philippino life.  The 20 minute drive to Crimson took us through shanty villages and crop fields with roaming cattle juxtaposed to fancy shopping centers and mansions.  The signs of wealth next to run down homes with dogs, chickens, and half naked children running conjured a sense of harsh inequality. Women sat swatting flies from rods of meat on rotisseries with homemade fans, and waved to us as we passed along.  

As in most of the Philippines, security at our hotel was tight. Guards checked the trunks and undercarriages of the taxis.  After a long day of traveling we stepped onto the beach, breathed the salty air, and began planned explorations for the next day.

Day 4: Lapu-Lapu city has big tourist sights like Fort San Pedro, Magellan's Cross, and Basilico de Santo Nino.  Peddlers and beggars mob visitors.  After giving my spare change to some children on a side street, we had an entourage for blocks.  Lunch was spicy fried chicken and sweet spaghetti from Jollibee (Philippine McDonalds, even though they have McD's too).  After lunch we hopped a ferry to Bohol, took a 1-hour tricycle ride through the countryside to Carmen, and hiked into Chocolate Hills National park, a natural wonder of treeless hills spreading to the horizon.

Chocolate Hills

Day 5: The love of competition is alive and well in Southeast Asia! On day 5, people were going nuts for the Pacqiauo-Bradley fight! It was standing room only in the pub at 11 am, and locals who couldn't afford the 150 piso entry (about $3 USD) lined the outside windows.  Unfortunately, Pac-man's 7 year undefeated streak was broken.  That plus the Celtics losing playoff game 7 to the Heat put a damper on the day.

Day 6: MALL OF ASIA!!! The biggest mall in the world complete with carnival style amusements lining the Manila Harbor strip, 780 shops and 300 restaurants.  Again, sensory overload.  After riding the MOA Eye (ferris wheel), shopping and watching street performers, we went into Burgos to have dinner at the Hobbit House, a restaurant completely staffed by little people.  The staff plus live music and icey Sam Adams beers made my night.  If Makati is Manhattan, Burgos is NOT.  Homeless mothers and children slept in the streets and freelancers (unregistered prostitutes) prowled the bars. Mingling with locals and getting hit on by "freelancers" the night interesting. 

Day 7: Intramuros.  This walled spanish city is filled to the brim with people.  Children, dogs, and tricycle drivers were on every stretch of every street.  We wandered here and walked the historic wall before finding a 7-eleven for snacks.  In the hot hot heat of mid day, a slurpee was the greatest pleasure, and we also purchased a local delicacy I had yet to try, balut (fetal chicken egg).  Crack the shell, slurp the goo, eat a baby chick.  It's a bit disconcerting.  Google it...

In Summary, the Philippines is an amazing contrast of sensory experiences and cultural combinations.  The culture and way of life are fascinating in a way that I would need hundreds more pages to describe. I'll spare you further explanations and end in saying, the opportunity to travel to different countries provides invaluable perspective.  Smelling the air, trying the food, getting the food poisoning, and being eaten alive by the mosquitos are all parts of the trip.  Never take what you have for granted and never pass up an opportunity to see new things.

24 hours in ChCh

My flight landed late, and I rode the bus in darkness to the Jailhouse.  I was extremely relieved to finally arrive the gates of my accommodation for the night, a converted historic prison.  This unique hostel bubbled with activity, and the staff was incredibly nice (30 NZD/night and very clean, if you're in Christchurch I recommend it).  I was invited to Dux Live, a local drum and bass club, but since Christchurch (ChCh) is only a one day stop on my two week trip, I opted to lay low and get rested.

Early the next morning after touring the prison facility and taking photos, I walked through Hagley Park to the central city. 

I was warned there wasn't much left in Christchurch after 2 severe earthquakes (7.1 in September 2010 and 6.3 February 2011), a major aftershock (6.3 in June 2011), and many minor, daily rumbles decimated it’s landmarks and tourist attractions, but the extent of damage is shocking.  The “no worries” NZ attitude isn't as contagious here.  In the middle of the city lies historic Cathedral Square, but now that area and surrounding blocks are blocked off by chain-linked barriers and known as the "Red Zone."  Cranes mar the skyline and reinforcement structures support buildings with “warning” and “do not enter” signs.  I drafted a list of things-to-see from trusty lonely planet travel guides, but everything from the Art Centre to the famed Dux De Lux Brewery are closed indefinitely.

  

The Garden City bares hope and life.  Between Cathedral Square and the central bus station lies Container City.  Previously the site of a bustling shopping district, ReStart: Cashel Mall is composed of colorful and creatively adapted shipping containers where city staples like Johnson’s Grocer, Toi Toi, and Scorpio Books are still going strong. There’s even a container restaurant district with a stage for live music and container versions of ASB, kiwi, and Westpac banks. 

After an urban walking tour, I commuted to outside the city to Lyttelton to hike around the harbor.  Again I was greeted by a disheartening, crumbled landscape and closed shops.  After a 1-hour walk around the water, I pit-stopped at one of the only café/pubs open in town.  The bartender said things are looking up.  Festival of Lights (Winter kick off) is this week and they had a rally to save the Cathedral the weekend before. 

One day in Christchurch was enough to get a taste.  I lucked out with beautiful weather to explore the Botanical Gardens, Avon River, and survey the earthquake damage.  Its' atmosphere is a sharp contrast to happy-go-lucky Queenstown, but this iconic city is essential to the history of Southern New Zealand.  I was happy to see it and look forward to returning in the future as it evolves.

Next stop, 12 hour layover in Changi airport, Singapore then onto the Philippines.... 

Winter is coming...

Game of Thrones fans anyone?  It gets a little dull here in the off season, so we have been supplementing with pop culture, but seriously, Winter IS coming to Queenstown.  Living minimally certainly makes you appreciate little things.  I will never take central heating for granted again after being able to see my breath when I go to sleep at night.  Half of town left with Summer.  All the water adventure shops are converting to ski shops, and going away house parties have taken the place of late nights in town.  Not going to lie, it’s a little depressing saying goodbye to people I've gotten used to spending my days with, especially Lauren and Katie who will be leaving June 3rd.  Luckily I have an awesome group sticking around for snow season!  With 8 roommates, Bram (Belgian), Shelly (Scottish), Tuki (Maori), Dougy (Samoan), Federico (Italian), my roommate Laura (British), and the newest addition Gauthie (French), it will be hard to get lonely!  

View from our front porch

Federico's alarm clock

Dougy in the Kiwi Haka

I’m very happy with my new part-time job at Dotti J and promo gig for World Bar.  Working a lot has been a saving grace from boredom, but many of us have still been going stir crazy in the dead season.  After adapting, I've found the change from “GO-GO-GO” to a more settled lifestyle is pretty nice.  I've done some out of town trips, including hitching down the coast to the surf/college town of Dunedin and multi-day hikes around Otago.  I’ve had lots of nights by the fire with a good book or movie and probably too much time to think.  I don’t have a firm plans of what happens after this, but I have some exciting ideas for Asia after snow season ends.  Anyone interested in Nepal?

Getting there... 

Baldwin St: Steepest Street in the World

St. Kilda Beach, Dunedin

I will not be attending The University of Auckland in July.  I'll go for a Master’s back home.  For now, the opportunity to explore this part of the world and have a snowboard season in Qtown are opportunities I don't want to pass up to sit in classrooms.  I'm picking up Italian words from Fede and working on my Spanish with Spanish and Mexican friends I’ve met. Queenstown is so international; and somehow everyone gets along and thrives. 

I’m SOOOO excited for snowboard season! We’ve been watching lots of videos (Art of Flight is mind blowing if you ride or not), and I got a new board, K2 Nikita Vavavoom.  The mountains are different than anything I’ve ridden before.  The closest ski field to us is Coronet Peak, but it is known for long cues and icey slopes.  I am getting a season pass for the Remarkables, which is a more jagged range that gets the best powder around.  It’s not as well developed; you have to hike to get to the backside, but it has the biggest and best park.  My friend Sophie and I are determined to become park queens this season.

Snow in the distance on the Moonlight Track

Laura in the clouds

Overall, I haven’t been jumping out of planes or off bridges lately, but I'm loving life and loving being settled.  Not having internet or TV at has made me fall into a bubble world. I will try to be better about putting up blogs though! I’m starting to get a little homesick for family and friends so shoot me emails or get on Skype!  

Everyone watching the Haka show

Alizarin Lizard! Our gracious hosts in Dunedin

Get busy living or get busy dying

Last week I did a 15,000 foot skydive over the Remarkable mountains (1/3 of the misty mountains from LoTR).  Santmyer was the only person in the history of Queenstown to say, "I haven't spent enough money,"  and naturally, jumping out of or off of stuff is the quickest way to blow cash here.  We took the trip with 20 others, but a couple from Australia and we were the only ones doing the highest altitude jump. After suiting up and learning drop positions (hang like a banana!) we met our tandem partners.  My guy, a 6'6" Russian named Sasa, has a lifetime of experience and 22,000 jumps.  Everyone straddled each other for the 15 minute spiral flight up.

 The first group jumped at 12k feet.  WOOSH, gone! At 15k I was the first to lean out, look straight down at the NZ panorama, and plummet towards it.  It takes 12 seconds to reach terminal velocity (200 kph/ 125mph), but you have 60 seconds of pure free fall followed by a 5 minute canopy fall.  Pressure built in my head, my ears started aching, cheeks started rippling in the wind, and it got hard to breathe, but holy crap it was the most exhilarating thing! I have no words to describe it.  My ears didn't pop for the whole next day, but it was worth not being able to hear :) Pictures were $180, so I took mental ones.

St. Patrick's day was also pretty extreme.  Queenstown is a ridiculous town, but St. Pat's was another level.  I have no pictures from that day either so I'll just say,  you haven't done St. Patty's right until you've done it with a group of Irish men and women.

The season is changing really quickly.  It stayed  light till 9pm when I first got here, but now the Sun disappears behind the mountains around 5:30 and it gets cold. Very cold.  I'm working hard to get in all the outdoorsy stuff and hikes on sunny days between the rainy ones.  Packing a backpack for the day and trekking out somewhere new with my big camera is one of my favorite things to do in the world.  It's so simple.  You can hike into places you would never see otherwise, and in NZ you might be trekking where no one has been in 10 years or ever before.   It's a good feeling to be out in the wilderness...

Queenstown Hill with Zo

Erik on the way to Skyline peak

Top of Tiki Trail 

Sunrise from the Lodge

I meet new people everyday especially since living in the lodge... locals, backpackers, and folks on holiday.  Everyone travels for different reasons.  New experiences, escaping old ones; to meet new people or to be alone. Whatever your reasons are...  "Get busy living or get busy dying" (Shawshank Redemption).  I think that sums up the mindset of most travelers.  See the world while you still have the chance.