I've been dreading trying to pack my time in the Philippines into one blog, but here goes nothing...
On 48 hours of no sleep, I exited the plane into a sauna, and it was only 6 am! Out on the street I got stares from all directions, which I quickly realized was due to being the only white person and probably the tallest one there (yep I was tall). Sensory overload continued as Glenn, my driver, ripped through Manila morning traffic, swerved around overloaded jeepneys (open air busses) and crossed the "shitty river" (literally a river filled with trash) into Makati city.
Day 1: Much like NYC, Manila is divided into
neighborhoods. Also like NYC, it is intimidatingly vast and busy.
Having a knowledgeable tour guide who spoke the language was amazing. We stayed in Makati, the Philippine Manhattan, for the first few days.
There are endless amounts of shops, restaurants, and people. I
was shocked to find myriad American comforts, Outback, California Pizza Kitchen, 7-eleven (oh thank heaven),
Forever 21, etc. Dinner the first night was traditional Fil cuisine; lots of garlic, lots of pork, adobo spice, and everything fried. We went to an open-air club for live music and people watching. Women are not allowed to sit at
the tables in here without a male companion, so scantily clad Filipinas
circled the patio like flies waiting for invitations.
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Jeepneys |
Day 2: The next day we visited Fort Bonofacio area. The Manila-American Cemetery and Memorial, spans 152 acres and is the largest American cemetery on foreign soil. It is an awe-inspiring visual of white headstones for fallen WWII soldiers in perfectly manicured rows.
Day 3: We flew to Cebu, an island to the south, and a much different representation of Philippino life. The 20 minute drive to Crimson took us through shanty villages and crop fields with roaming cattle juxtaposed to fancy shopping centers and mansions. The signs of wealth next to run down homes with dogs, chickens, and half naked children running conjured a sense of harsh inequality. Women sat swatting flies from rods of meat on rotisseries with homemade fans, and waved to us as we passed along.
As in most of the Philippines, security at our hotel was tight. Guards checked the trunks and undercarriages of the taxis. After a long day of traveling we stepped onto the beach, breathed the salty air, and began planned explorations for the next day.
Day 4: Lapu-Lapu city has big tourist sights like Fort San Pedro, Magellan's Cross, and Basilico de Santo Nino. Peddlers and beggars mob visitors. After giving my spare change to some children on a side street, we had an entourage for blocks. Lunch was spicy fried chicken and sweet spaghetti from Jollibee (Philippine McDonalds, even though they have McD's too). After lunch we hopped a ferry to Bohol, took a 1-hour tricycle ride through the countryside to Carmen, and hiked into Chocolate Hills National park, a natural wonder of treeless hills spreading to the horizon.
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Chocolate Hills |
Day 5: The love of competition is alive and well in Southeast Asia! On day 5, people were going nuts for the Pacqiauo-Bradley fight! It was standing room only in the pub at 11 am, and locals who couldn't afford the 150 piso entry (about $3 USD) lined the outside windows. Unfortunately, Pac-man's 7 year undefeated streak was broken. That plus the Celtics losing playoff game 7 to the Heat put a damper on the day.
Day 6: MALL OF ASIA!!! The biggest mall in the world complete with carnival style amusements lining the Manila Harbor strip, 780 shops and 300 restaurants. Again, sensory overload. After riding the MOA Eye (ferris wheel), shopping and watching street performers, we went into Burgos to have dinner at the Hobbit House, a restaurant completely staffed by little people. The staff plus live music and icey Sam Adams beers made my night. If Makati is Manhattan, Burgos is NOT. Homeless mothers and children slept in the streets and freelancers (unregistered prostitutes) prowled the bars. Mingling with locals and getting hit on by "freelancers" the night interesting.
Day 7: Intramuros. This walled spanish city is filled to the brim with people. Children, dogs, and tricycle drivers were on every stretch of every street. We wandered here and walked the historic wall before finding a 7-eleven for snacks. In the hot hot heat of mid day, a slurpee was the greatest pleasure, and we also purchased a local delicacy I had yet to try, balut (fetal chicken egg). Crack the shell, slurp the goo, eat a baby chick. It's a bit disconcerting. Google it...
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In Summary, the Philippines is an amazing contrast of sensory experiences and cultural combinations. The culture and way of life are fascinating in a way that I would need hundreds more pages to describe. I'll spare you further explanations and end in saying, the opportunity to travel to different countries provides invaluable perspective. Smelling the air, trying the food, getting the food poisoning, and being eaten alive by the mosquitos are all parts of the trip. Never take what you have for granted and never pass up an opportunity to see new things.