My flight landed late, and I rode the bus in darkness to the Jailhouse. I was extremely relieved to finally arrive the gates of my accommodation for the night, a converted historic prison. This unique hostel bubbled with activity, and the staff was incredibly nice (30 NZD/night and very clean, if you're in Christchurch I recommend it). I was invited to Dux Live, a local drum and bass club, but since Christchurch (ChCh) is only a one day stop on my two week trip, I opted to lay low and get rested.
Early the next morning after touring the prison facility and taking photos, I walked through Hagley Park to the central city.
I was warned there wasn't much left in Christchurch after 2 severe earthquakes (7.1 in September 2010 and 6.3 February 2011), a major aftershock (6.3 in June 2011), and many minor, daily rumbles decimated it’s landmarks and tourist attractions, but the extent of damage is shocking. The “no worries” NZ attitude isn't as contagious here. In the middle of the city lies historic Cathedral Square, but now that area and surrounding blocks are blocked off by chain-linked barriers and known as the "Red Zone." Cranes mar the skyline and reinforcement structures support buildings with “warning” and “do not enter” signs. I drafted a list of things-to-see from trusty lonely planet travel guides, but everything from the Art Centre to the famed Dux De Lux Brewery are closed indefinitely.
The Garden City bares hope and life.
Between Cathedral Square and the central bus station lies Container City. Previously the site of a
bustling shopping district, ReStart: Cashel Mall is composed of colorful and
creatively adapted shipping containers where city staples like
Johnson’s Grocer, Toi Toi, and Scorpio Books are still going strong. There’s
even a container restaurant district with a stage for live music and container versions of
ASB, kiwi, and Westpac banks.
After an urban walking tour, I commuted to outside the city to Lyttelton to hike around the harbor.
Again I was greeted by a disheartening, crumbled landscape and closed shops. After a 1-hour walk around the water, I pit-stopped at one of the only café/pubs open in town. The bartender said things are looking
up. Festival of Lights
(Winter kick off) is this week and they had a rally to save the Cathedral the
weekend before.
One day in Christchurch was enough to get a taste. I lucked out with beautiful weather to explore the Botanical Gardens, Avon River, and survey the earthquake damage. Its' atmosphere is a sharp contrast to happy-go-lucky Queenstown, but this iconic city is essential to the history of Southern New Zealand. I was happy to see it and look forward to returning in the future as it evolves.
Next stop, 12 hour layover in Changi airport, Singapore then onto the Philippines....
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