Legend of the Lake

Lake Wakatipu has a curious habit of rising and falling 12-20 cm every 27 minutes.  Maori legend credits this phenomenon to the ogre Matau who was capitally punished for abducting a local chief’s daughter.  Matau was burned alive in his sleep.  The heat of the blaze melted the snow from surrounding mountains into the deep "S" shaped hole where Matau fell during his demise.  The resilient beat of his heart could not be stopped though, which causes the eternal pulse of the lake. 

In the past week I’ve gone kayaking, hiking, boating, and 4-wheel canyon driving, but that barely scratches the surface of things to do in Queenstown.  A Reavers coworker is an NZ tourism guide (aka good friend to have) and took me kayaking on the lake.  Mountain weather changes fast, especially here with currents coming from Antarctica, so storms can sneak up on you in the open water.  A storm rolled in on us, but we got out fine.  Some confident kayakers have not been so lucky in the past.  Later we drove into Skipper’s Canyon, a filming spot for LoTR and King Kong and the most hair-raising road I've ever seen.  Kiwis are crazy, they jump off bridges and drive like maniacs!  This “road” into the gorge is a one lane dirt path leading to 

a ghost mining town and the Shotover River.  There are sheer cliffs up one side and straight down on the other.  Tour buses and trucks taking tourists to jet boat and white water rafting sites use the road constantly, and if you meet up them, they have the right of way.  This means you must reverse down the one lane road till a passing point… definitely requires skill.   Tourists get into trouble down there a lot thinking it’s just a scenic drive.  There are plenty of "slips"where not so lucky drivers have died.  There are accidents on a regular basis.  Word to the wise: buy a tour if you want to see Skipper’s Canyon, which you should because it’s AWESOME.

I was going to move out of the lodge, but now I’m glad I didn’t.  The people are awesome, the facilities are great, and the housekeeping staff finds the most ridiculous things people leave behind.  So far I’ve acquired a poker set, an orange top hat worthy of the Kentucky Derby, a bottle of NZ Pinot Noir, a hair dryer, and a camping lantern.  My Vietnamese roommate Wendy makes the delicious curries and noodle dishes. Dougy, a big Samoan, plays guitar and sings like an angel for background music in the common room.  The managers, Dean, Todd, and Kim, are hooking me up with some adventure vouchers as well.  This week I’m going river surfing and maybe to the bungy… maybe.

Erik, a friend from VT, arrived this week.  Yesterday he rented a boat.  Kayaking Wakatipu is great, but jetting across it was a whole different game.  We rode from Frankton Pier to Bob’s Cove and did some fishing.  The glacier water is so clear and so cold!  I’m doing pretty well on my goal of trying something new everyday; yesterday I drove a boat for the first time! After the boat trip, Lauren made a pot roast feast, and we hung out with a full house of roommates at the 39 Gorge house. Erik is staying till Sunday, which means he will be here for St. Patrick’s day.   This town is full of crazy Irish pubs and crazy awesome Irish people, so St. Pat's Day should be fun. 

I’m learning a lot about what people think of the US.  People generalize about every nationality, but the resounding opinion on Americans is that we are loud, obnoxious, and bossy.  Yep, I can be all of those things.  I also heard the term “sepo” or “septic tank yank” for the first time.  They are ugly slangs meaning the US is polluting the world or some bla bla bla you suck it. I won't call names, but given only 18% of Americans have passports, it doesn’t seem fair to judge based on the small percentage of us traveling or what's in the media.  I’m trying not to be so loud, obnoxious, or bossy, but that's hard since I'm always right ...Just kidding...


If you're still keeping up with me via this blog THANKS!!!! I've been slacking and leaving the camera at home.  I'll have a new one up in a few days that involves planes... and jumping out of them :) XO 

Sorry Mom, I hitchhiked...

Sunrise on Shotover St.

I’m finally settled in! I took a full time job at Captain’s.  We had a tasting for our Fall menu yesterday, which includes kobe beef tartare, tarakey risotto, lamb shanks, braised pork cheek, and apricot coconut crème brulee.  Um yeah… it was the highlight of my normally pb&j filled day.  Working in a restaurant abroad is wild.  People from all over the world come to Qtown, so the language barrier can be tough; speak slowly, annunciate, be patient.  My first night I learned in the UK you do NOT clear plates from a table till everyone is done from an uppity British man.  I’m still learning the lingo (lemonade= sprite, Kumara= sweet potato, entrée= appetizer, filet is pronounced “fill-it". Not working for tips is also a new concept.  I wish I could just get paid for hiking and taking pictures, but unfortunately there are no openings for that. 

Wonder how long this will last... 

I’ve hiked Queenstown hill (Nick and I made some patriotic stone art at the top), Tiki trail, Bob’s Cove, and on Thursday Anthony and I did Moke Lake and Lake Dispute.  Sorry Mom, I really did hitchhike, and it was awesome.  Anthony’s tutorial: when you hear a car, make eye contact and stick your thumb out! Hitching is very common around NZ, but I was really sketched out to try it.  A fifty-something y/o couple, Robin and Kevin, picked us up.  They are on holiday from Auckland, continuing their 30 year honeymoon J.  In addition to giving us a ride, they hiked with us for awhile and gave me their contact info to come stay with them when I move to Auckland in June.  Their daughter studies at U of Auckland, and they have a chemist friend who may be able to give me a job. 
First hitching experience, SCORE! The hike was about 
2 hours, of sunny hills surrounded by snowy capped mountains, sheep, cattle, flowers everywhere.


It really sucked.

Moke Lake

Today I moved into Reaver’s lodge.  Crashing at Lauren and Katie’s was fun, while adjusting and flat hunting, but finally unpacking today feels good.  At Reaver’s I’ll be working 12 hours a week (3 x 7- 11am breakfast shifts), in exchange for a room+ all bills, breakfast, wifi, access to a hot tub, pool table, free laundry, and some good hook ups for outdoor adventures that the lodge books for guests.  The staff is all young and really cool, and I’ve convinced a few guests to come visit me at Captain’s tonight! It’s hard working two jobs, waking up early and staying up late, but if I’m living the traveller life, I’m going all out.  It’s fulfilling to work hard and see it pay off

Anthony by Lake Dispute

I’ll admit I miss my family.  My cousin Phyllis had a heart attack, and all I can do is pray for her.  I haven’t talked to my brother since he deployed.  This is also the longest I’ve gone in six years without talking to Shae.  Don’t get me wrong; I love the simple lifestyle.  I might be the happiest I’ve ever been, but I could really go for some March madness and a night out with Chris right about now.  Bottom line, being here is a once in a lifetime opportunity.   The myriad people I’m meeting are opening my eyes to foreign cultures and new perspectives.  I’m also learning a lot about myself and what I’m capable of with a little effort.

Being here and sharing stories with new people is a reality slap for how lucky I have been to have good friends, supportive family, and all the opportunities I sometimes overlook.  This kind of travelling is not for the faint at heart; I didn’t shower for days because there was no hot water (I eventually caved... ice cold showers aren't so bad) and I’ve been living out of a backpack and gone a few days with only 1 meal.  Many people I’ve met have been through worse, but they are all the stronger for it. Life, every experience, is what you make it.  Attitude is everything.  Perseverance and sincerity will take you a long way if you’re open to new things.   

Queenstown

I'm in Otago where sheep outnumber people 9:1, people don't lock their doors, you can walk or hitchhike everywhere, and backpackers inhabit the public parking lots.  So far I've learned you don't need to refrigerate eggs, there are no paper towels, trash bags cost $2 each, neked means tired (not naked), arugula is called rocket, and no one else uses American billiard rules.  Queenstown's population is ~10,416, so it's quaint, but also known the world's most extreme sports destination.  You can do anything from river surfing to canyoning and it was the birthplace of bungee jumping.  Since arriving, there have been nonstop new experiences, not very much sleep, and travel journal entries are getting longer and longer.

First smooth move in Queenstown- I left my cell phone on the plane.  Charlotte, flight friend from UK, watched my bags while I ran out on the runway to get it back from security.  Running on the runway would definitely get you arrested in USA, but here, no worries.  The people living around lake Wakatipu are from everywhere, Brazil to Czech Republic to India to you name it.  Tourists are everywhere getting in their last vacations as Summer winds down, but there are also a lot of young people on work visas and sponsorships.  I'm the newbie trying to adjust.

Lauren and Katie live in a 5 bedroom house with Alice and Gronya (Irish), Steve (Aussie), Laura and Lea (German), landlord Nick (weirdo), and now me and Nick C (VT friend).  Everyone gets along really well even with just 2 bathrooms.  Nick C arrived from Southeast Asia on Saturday with -$2.28 in the bank, hadn't eaten a meal in 3 days, and slept in a McDonalds the night before.  He doesn't have a raincoat because it got ruined by banana sap when he was working on a banana farm in Australia.  You can't make this stuff up.  Right now, the 4 of us are sharing this room...

Lake Wakatipu has crystal blue waters bordered by massive mountains.  Each day we try to get in some fun outdoor activity like a hike, disc golf, kayak, etc.  Town is a 5 minute walk, and there are tons of cool shops and galleries.  On Sunday we went to a BMX competition down the road, and the past two days Nick and I have been going door to door in town on the job hunt.  I have a trial shift at a seafood restaurant tomorrow.  Today I drove on the left side of the road for the first time to Glenorchy to ride for a position as a horseback riding tour guide at Dart Stables.  Dart is one of two yards touring the land used to film Lord of the Rings, the Hobbit, and Willow. They had 8 horses in Lord of the Rings and a few in the recently filmed Hobbit.  On the 2 hour trail ride we waded through a few streams and saw the Misty Mountains and Mount Doom.  Horseback riding through paradise for a job interview? Boom.  They want me back on Friday for a 6 hour ride. I have been slacking on taking pictures, and I honestly don't think pictures do this place justice, but I'll try.

City of Sails

Kia Ora from Auckland!  I've been trying to catch up on writing for days, but there's no down time here, which I love! After having my boots bleached at the airport (biosecurity standard) and learning to cross the road with cars driving on the left side (by almost dying), I settled at K Road City Traveller hostel on Karangahape Rd (main strip of clubs, cafes, restaurants, shops, loud people at 2 am, etc).  As NZ's main hub, Auckland is home to 1/3 of the country's population and a pit stop for travelers starting or ending their trips.  Not an Italian restaurant in sight, but there's a Starbucks, McDs, or Wendy's just around the corner.  You can get any kind of authentic Asian food you ever wanted in Auckland, and so far I’ve had the best Turkish, Chinese, and Indian foods of my life. 

My first friend in NZ was Willi, a German who did a month in Sydney, a month in NZ, and USA (LA to NYC) is next. My hostel mates were Jane from Melbourne and Julian from Munich.  Jane is a mother of two on vacation from her family for 10 days.  She was a big backpacker in the 80's "when backpacking was real good."  At 23, Julian has lived in Cuba, Kenya, India, and is now finishing a full year in New Zealand.   He is flying home to surprise his mom for her birthday! Our mate Cecily is Irish and has been to Cambodia, Laos, Thailand, Vietnam, China, and Indonesia. The travelers are outgoing and interesting.  Everyone wants to know your plans and where you're from.  

I managed to trump jet lag.  Willi and I walked all over my first day.   On day two, Julian and I visited the Art Gallery downtown; easily one of the coolest museums I’ve ever seen, content and architecture.  New Zealand artwork draws heavy inspiration from nature.  Descriptions of modern pieces speak of natural elements like stalactites/ stalagmites, the landscapes of different regions, mountains, birds, etc.  The Maori art is like nothing I’ve ever seen. 

University of Auckland’s city campus lies in the middle of downtown and runs along the beautiful Albert Park, a large garden and festival site.  I walked the length of Queens St strip, saw Sky Tower (looks a lot like the Space Needle), and walked Princes Wharf and Auckland Harbor.  It's lovely there but typical urban.  I can't wait to get to the South Island, where sheep outnumber people.  I want to hike and kayak my way around all the lakes and mountains! More to come soon. Cheers!

LALA land

Yep, this town is another world.  I was told I'd love it or be intimidated, and I think I've experienced both. The scenery and people watching are top notch.  Alex was the BEST host, and his friends are all very cool and creative.  

We walked Venice Beach to Santa Monica, rubbed elbows with the semi-famous at a Grammy party, met Skrillex, explored Hollywood,  had a saturated fat food frenzy at Roscoe's Chicken and Waffles, cruised Beverly Hills, ran into Lou Ferrigno, and now I'm at  LAX.  It's officially sunk in that yes, I am moving to the other side of the world. I think the waves of nausea are excitement, but I may be getting a little nervous too.

I get to time travel over Valentine's Day (leave 9pm 2/13 and arrive 7am 2/15).  Can't say I've ever gone through a wrinkle in time, so that is also pretty exciting :) Goodbye USA.  Next stop Auckland...

In transit...

This week flew! The days weren’t long enough to do everything I needed to do and see everyone I wanted to see, and my vicious procrastination problem didn’t help matters.  One nugget of advice to anyone preparing to take a long trip; do not wait until 6pm the night before a 7 am flight to attempt..

fitting this... 

... into this

                   >>

It will make you want to cry.  With the help of my master traveller Dad and James  for moral support I managed to get it done.  Now I am sitting in Chicago O’Hare, running on about 2 hours of sleep, and bracing for my first trip to LA! 

I somehow upgraded to first class for this whole trip, also a first.  Did you know drinks are free and in flight meals actually taste good up there?! I will be back in the cattle car for the long haul to Auckland on Monday.  Another fortunate point of the trip was good company.   My first class flight mate was a man named Larry from my hometown who now lives in Napa as a wine vitner and international wine critic/consultant (holy perfect job).  How do people get so lucky?  His experience includes a stint in the marines, international business, a few years with Gallo, blabla…etc…  His bottom line: just work hard at what you love doing.  Good advice, but is it that simple?  He gave me his card, in case I need a job when I get back from NZ….

Sorry if I’m rambling, 2 hours of sleep, forgive me.  My goals for this trip are to become a master kayaker, to keep a positive attitude no matter what, and prove to myself I can do this… get empowered (like how it goes in those hallmark or lifetime movies).  Maybe when I get back I’ll have the guts to call Mr. Larry the California wine guru and ask for a job.   Jumping in headfirst can get you a broken neck, but sometimes that leap of faith is what it takes to get what you want.  

PS I found out my Mom is a really awesome rock climber yesterday.  Seriously. GO MOM!

Last day at Duke!!!

January flew by! I haven't appreciated how lucky I was to end up in Raleigh/Durham until now on the verge of leaving (holy crap I'm moving to New Zealand?).  First, best first job ever. My labmates, coworkers, boss, and other Duke staff are AMAZING, inspiring individuals! 

Counter Lab- I can't thank you all enough! In addition to learning  science and managerial skills, I've listened to a lot of new music, become a pro at "The Princeton Word Game", learned how to blow up a sink with dry ice and how far mice can jump, and tried REAL Chinese food.  I've been exposed to the healthcare system from many angles and the reality of Cancer.  Cancer affects individuals and entire families.  It also poses a serious, growing problem to society, but there are so many brilliant people working for a cure.  Donate, read, get educated.


No words can describe the past two years in NC with my new friends, brother, roommate, and boyfriend. To save you from verbose sappiness, you guys mean the world to me and THANK YOU!!!

People keep asking why I chose New Zealand.  Besides my love of traveling, studying abroad, and of course my two good friends there, this idea started on a flight to Maine last May.  I was sitting next to a Boston business man on his way back from a golf trip.  He told me about his two sons, beautiful wife, and the couple years he spent in Southeast Asia that changed his life.  He took off for Australia after graduation with 2.5K and a backpack.  He went all over till he ran out of money, and then got a job in Singapore where he worked till earning enough to get back.  Overall, the adventure took two years, but he met his wife, made great friends, and developed the plan for the business he owns today.  How can you not get fired up hearing a story like that?! I'm not expecting the same life changing experience, but how often do you get a chance to take the plunge and live somewhere completely different?  Not often. Bring it on!

Off to celebrate my last weekend at Raleigh at First Friday!!! Thanks for reading XO